A pizzeria in Budapest is taking diners on a culinary journey back to ancient Rome with a unique pizza that incorporates only ingredients available during that era. At Neverland Pizzeria, founder Josep Zara and his team have crafted a limited-edition pie that pays homage to the early roots of this beloved dish, long before the introduction of tomatoes, mozzarella, and even the term “pizza.”
Zara’s inspiration emerged from a recent archaeological discovery in Pompeii, where a fresco depicting a focaccia-like flatbread topped with pomegranate seeds and spices made headlines. This led him to ponder how pizza might have been enjoyed two millennia ago. “Curiosity drove us to ask what pizza might have been like long ago,” Zara explained. “We went all the way back to the Roman Empire and wondered whether they even ate pizza at the time.”
Strictly speaking, the Romans did not eat pizza as it is known today. The tomato, a key ingredient in modern variations, was brought to Europe from the Americas only centuries later. Instead, they consumed oven-baked flatbreads topped with various herbs, cheeses, and sauces, the precursors to contemporary pizza, often sold in ancient Roman snack bars known as thermopolia.
Recreating a Culinary Heritage
Zara delved into Roman culinary history, consulting a historian in Germany and referencing the ancient cookbook De re coquinaria, believed to have been written around the 5th century. He compiled a list of historically documented ingredients and presented it to the pizzeria’s head chef, László Bárdossy. “We sat down to imagine what we might be able to make using these ingredients, and without using things like tomatoes and mozzarella,” Zara stated. “We had to exclude all ingredients that originated from America.”
The restrictions necessitated extensive experimentation. Bárdossy noted the challenges posed by the absence of modern infrastructure, particularly the lack of a reliable water system in ancient times. Given that more than 80% of pizza dough relies on water, they needed to innovate. The solution involved using fermented spinach juice to help the dough rise, while ancient grains such as einkorn and spelt provided the base. The resulting crust is denser than what patrons might expect from a standard pizza.
The final product showcases toppings linked to Roman aristocratic cuisine, including epityrum (an olive paste), garum (a fermented fish sauce), confit duck leg, toasted pine nuts, ricotta, and a grape reduction. “Our creation can be called a modern pizza in the sense that we tried to make it comprehensible for everyone,” Bárdossy remarked. “Although we wouldn’t use all its ingredients for everyday dishes. There is a narrow niche that thinks this is delicious and is curious about it, while most people want more conventional pizza, so it’s not for everyday eating. It’s something special.”
A Blend of Tradition and Innovation
For Zara, this project embodies the broader philosophy of Neverland Pizzeria. “We’ve always liked coming up with new and interesting things, but tradition is also very important for us, and we thought that these two things together suit us,” he said. Despite their experimental approach, he emphasized a modern boundary the restaurant will not cross: “We do a lot of experimentation with our pizzas. But of course, we definitely do not use pineapple.”
As diners flock to experience this ancient recipe, Neverland Pizzeria is not just serving food; it is offering a taste of history. This innovative approach to pizza invites guests to explore a culinary legacy that predates modern variations, making it a noteworthy addition to Budapest’s vibrant dining scene.
